Ronchi di Cialla
Background
For 46 years, the family-run Ronchi di Chialla has made superb wines from indigenous grapes such as Refosco, Ribolla Gialla, Verduzzo, and Picolit. The Ronchi di Cialla estate is strictly a family business. While Dina and Paolo Rapuzzi, who founded it in 1970, were attracted by wine growing as a way of living, their children Pierpaolo and Ivan, belong to a generation that “grew up with vines”. Both, in fact, obtained a degree in Food Sciences and are agrarian experts; they firmly support the Ronchi di Cialla policy and immemorial wine making tradition in Friuli. This family has thus become an uncommon heir of ancient traditions in one hand and modern scientific knowledge in the other, making this small family business unique.
The sunny slopes of the small Cialla valley have been planted with vineyards for centuries. History and tradition suggest that Verduzzo, Picolit, Ribolla Gialla, Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso and Schioppettino were the most appreciated and popular vines.
Schioppettino, in particular, is a variety, which is limited to an area spreading over a few kilometres of land between Cialla and Prepotto. This particular species, which had been about to disappear, was saved at the beginning of the 70's thanks to a bold and resolute decision made by Ronchi di Cialla.
Cialla has remained intact because it is a bit distant from other settlements, as it was in ancient times when it was called Cela. Cela, in the Slavic language, means “Riviera”. it was given this name because it had such an exclusive and good micro-climate, that even now olives grow there. The step terraces, carved out of the hills, perfectly located in terms of the directions they face for wine cultivation, go back to the times of the Patriarchate of Aquileia and the Republic of Venice, and according to deeply rooted local folklore, they were developed by Turkish prisoners.
The production of the Cialla cru grapes is controlled by a Decree issued by the Ministry of Agricultural Resources and published in the Official Bulletin n. 278 dated November 28th, 1995. The maximum production of grapes allowed per hectare is 6 tons of Schioppettino and Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, 8 tons of Verduzzo and Ribolla Gialla and 3.5 tons of Picolit. Grape production per vine must not exceed 2 kg as far as red grapes are concerned, 2.7 kg for white grapes (Verduzzo and Ribolla Gialla) and 1.3 kg for Picolit grapes. However, per company’s policy, the actual production is much lower and it never exceeds one kilo of grapes per vine.
Significant work has been done for years on older vineyards, at the moment 4,500 vines per hectare are being thickened and the sandbank lowered based on the Guyot method. The new vineyards are organized following the Guyot principle with an investment on no less than 5,000 vines per hectare. Great care is taken in new vineyards and research is carried out to find suitable graft-bearing stump to fit the different varieties and types of soil. Grafts, on the other hand, come from a meticulous mass selection carried out in the vineyards to get a significant improvement in quality while maintaining the natural genetic properties of the wines and respecting the typical features, which characterize them.
Schioppettino
The earliest written mentions of Schioppettino date back to 1282 on manuscripts now kept in the Albana Castle, in the Prepotto province. Historically, this grape has different names in different regions, according to the language of the land: Sclopetin (Friuli), Pocalza (Slovenia) and Ribolla Nera (Italy). Since its origins, Schioppettino has always been grown in a very small area on the southern hills of the Prepotto county. Traditionally, two “cru” stand out for quality: Cialla and Albana.
There were approximately a hundred or more local vineyards in Friuli and Schioppettino was quite well known and liked outside the region, its reputation reaching as far as central Europe. Unluckily, most of those vineyards were destroyed between 1800 and 1900 with the spread of terrible grape diseases like “oidio” and “fillossera”. Eventually, the cultivation was completely abandoned after World War I and II, as Cialla was close to the front line and workers were recruited in the army.
After the war, traditional grapes were replaced with foreign types (Cabernet, Merlot, Blaufrankisch ecc.), which were easier to grow and more marketable, resulting in the loss of a range of indigenous kinds that was unique in the world!
In 1970, the only traces of Schiopettino were in ancient manuscripts and in the memory of the elders. Paolo and Dina Rapuzzi managed to find about 70 surviving vines in the valley and nearby, which enabled them to create a whole new vineyard and resuscitate Schioppettino.
From the very first test of vineyard, it was evident that Schioppettino would age perfectly and could match the best international grapes with its elegance, complexity and finesse.
Ronchi di Cialla was one of the first winemakers to adopt integrated agriculture, with low environmental impact. As a matter of fact, all vineyards are planted with grass adopting natural methods; parasite control (both fungi and arthropods) is kept to its minimum degree by using highly transitory contact or biological products only, in order to get top quality grapes, which are totally free of chemical residues. Fungi is controlled by a computerized micro-climatic central unit, while bugs are monitored by means of specific female pheromones traps. All agronomic operations are handled the owners with the cooperation of the well-known agronomist Pierpaolo Sirch.
As the result of a limited yield imposed by cru Cialla rules, the grape harvest is rigorously carried out by hand, and selectively harvested at the right time and with the maximum amount of care to obtain a qualitatively perfect product. Vinification is carried out naturally in line with the philosophy of not forcing the transformation and aging phases, which always privileges the “typicality” given to cru wine. The work carried out in the wine cellar is dealt with by the owners with the cooperation of the wine expert Roberto Cipresso.
The maturing of the wines in barrels with a personalized dosage of wood (French bay oaks) and toasted oak staves, makes Ronchi di Cialla wines among the highest quality Italian wines and absolutely the first white wines (1977) to use this old nature wine stabilization process. Subsequently, the wines are bottled; the bottles, which are numbered in sequence, are made to settle in the darkness of wine cellars until, thanks to long and undisturbed meditation, theyfully mature. It is up to the sensitiveness and experience of the producers to look after them during their aging, to achieve the “right” taste, which from that moment onwards will increasingly develop the personality and typicality of cru Cialla over the years.
The making of red wines
The red grapes reach the wine cellar and are immediately separated. They are then made to ferment inside a steel container where maceration takes place; during this process two different ‘délestages’ per day take place in order to solve tannins and stabilize color.
After 20-25 days, this phase is completed and wine is taken to ‘barriques’, where malolactic fermentation is completed; it then rests on its own sediments for at least one year. The wood ‘cuvee’ consists of 50% new barriques every year and 50% barriques, which have already been used – but in one cycle only.
The addition of sulphurous anhydride (always in very low proportions) is made before the summer of the following year and then kept unchanged. Once refinement inside the oak barrels is over, the wine is poured in bottles where it stays for a period of at least two years before being sold.
The making of white wines
The white grapes reach the wine cellar and are immediately separated and pressed. After a first decantation, the must thus obtained is made to ferment on its own sediments inside ‘barriques’ and stays there for approximately 11 months.
The wood ‘cuvee’ consists of 25% new ‘barriques’ and the rest consists of ‘barriques’ used for 2 cycles maximum – in decreasing percentages. Once refinement inside oak barrels is over, the wine is poured into bottles where it stays for a period of at least 6 months before being sold.
Raisin wines (Picolit)
This winemaking process dates back to an ancient tradition in Friuli according to which, ever since the XVII century, Picolit was considered one of “…the most precious wines, which distinguished themselves at the courts of kings and queens all over Europe ….”
Tradition teaches us that a few days before harvesting, when grapes are still on the vine –– it is necessary to cut the shoots supporting grape bunches for a first partial withering of the grapes on the plant (this operation, in the Friuli language has been known as “tajà lis strezzis” “to cut off locks”). Then grapes are harvested and put – by one layer only – into suitable wood cassettes, half of these grapes are set up in a naturally ventilated room to wither at length – until mid December, resulting in a 60% decrease in weight. .
The must thus obtained contains a high concentration of sugars and extracts, it is made to ferment in small oak barrels, so that fermentation can continue until the following spring. It is then added to the remaining Picolit and, after a natural static decantation, the wine is poured into bottles for a long period of slow refinement before being marketed.
It is thus possible to get a great wine endowed with structure and roundness, as well as freshness and elegant floral fragrances: features of the famous Picolit wine of Cialla.
Wines improvement in ‘barriques’, with personalized wood dosing (French oaks) and stave toasting, makes Ronchi di Cialla one of the first companies in Italy, and the very first one as for white wines (1977), which adopted this ancient procedure of natural wine stabilization.
Such company choices allow high quality wines to be obtained, wines which express their strong personality and the typical properties of Cialla cru while aging.
The work carried out in the wine cellar is dealt with by the owners with the cooperation of the wine expert Roberto Cipresso.
Important stages in the development of the
Schioppettino project in Cialla
1970: Paolo and Dina Rapuzzi founded the Ronchi di Cialla vineyard with the intent of growing exclusively indigenous Friuli grapes and produce great ageing wines but had to face several technical and bureaucracy problems in order to recover the Schioppettino vines, whose cultivation, by the way, was no longer allowed legally as the grape itself was thought to be exhausted.
1976: The Rapuzzi vineyard received the first “Risit d’aur” award for bringing Schioppettino back into his natural habitat of Cialla di Prepotto, in spite of the absurd laws stating its extinction. In the same here, its cultivation was declared legal again.
1977: First vintage of Schioppettino.
1978: On March 14th, a legal statement with the results of the 1977 vintage was released and made available to the press and connoisseurs confirming 35 hectolitres of Schiopettino had been produced and were currently fermenting before being poured in wooden oaks of 225 litres each to age for 6-8 months. According to this document, the texture of the liquid was remarkable and let foresee the wine distinguished character.
1983: The geographical boundaries of the original Schioppettino’s valley of Cialla are established.
1989: Schioppettino became DOC Colli Orientali del Friuli.
1995: Law 164 was published in the Official Gazette no. 278/95 the disciplinary code of the Cialla. Until now, Ronchi di Cialla is known as the only one in Italy that produces wines from 5 native vineyards Schioppettino, Refosco from the Red Peduncolo, Ribolla, Verduzzo and Picolit.
2001: On January 12th, the 1986 and 1988 Schioppettino di Cialla were auctioned at Christie’s in New York along the best Italian and French brands.
2001: May 19-20th, In the presence of a public notary, the company Ronchi Cialla issues the “1st Call for topping up” for the prestigious vintages Schioppettino 1985’s and Verduzzo 1983’s. The Calla Company proceeded with the operation of refilling a limited number of bottles: some owned by Rapuzzi family, and others owned by other customers.
2002: June 8th marked the 25th anniversary of Schioppetino’s rebirth. Its evolution was displayed in a tasting for a selected experts commission through 6 signature vintages (’77. ’80, ’83, ’85, ’90 and ’98) which received very positive feedback. The experts were impressed with the ever-growing improvement of the product and the enhancement of its expression due to the long aging periods.
2003: May 10th, “2nd Call for topping up”. In the presence of a notary and of Rapuzzi Family are topped up: Schioppettino, Refosco dal peduncle Red, Picolit and Verduzzo vintage 1977. The refilled bottles are property of the Ronchi of Cialla and of their most prestigious clients.
