Ronchi di Cialla
Background
For 46 years, the family-run Ronchi di Chialla has made superb wines from indigenous grapes such as Refosco, Ribolla Gialla, Verduzzo, and Picolit. The Ronchi di Cialla estate is strictly a family business. While Dina and Paolo Rapuzzi, who founded it in 1970, were attracted by wine growing as a way of living, their children Pierpaolo and Ivan, belong to a generation that “grew up with vines”. Both, in fact, obtained a degree in Food Sciences and are agrarian experts; they firmly support the Ronchi di Cialla policy and immemorial wine making tradition in Friuli. This family has thus become an uncommon heir of ancient traditions in one hand and modern scientific knowledge in the other, making this small family business unique.
The sunny slopes of the small Cialla valley have been planted with vineyards for centuries. History and tradition suggest that Verduzzo, Picolit, Ribolla Gialla, Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso and Schioppettino were the most appreciated and popular vines.
Schioppettino, in particular, is a variety, which is limited to an area spreading over a few kilometres of land between Cialla and Prepotto. This particular species, which had been about to disappear, was saved at the beginning of the 70's thanks to a bold and resolute decision made by Ronchi di Cialla.
Cialla has remained intact because it is a bit distant from other settlements, as it was in ancient times when it was called Cela. Cela, in the Slavic language, means “Riviera”. it was given this name because it had such an exclusive and good micro-climate, that even now olives grow there. The step terraces, carved out of the hills, perfectly located in terms of the directions they face for wine cultivation, go back to the times of the Patriarchate of Aquileia and the Republic of Venice, and according to deeply rooted local folklore, they were developed by Turkish prisoners.
The production of the Cialla cru grapes is controlled by a Decree issued by the Ministry of Agricultural Resources and published in the Official Bulletin n. 278 dated November 28th, 1995. The maximum production of grapes allowed per hectare is 6 tons of Schioppettino and Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, 8 tons of Verduzzo and Ribolla Gialla and 3.5 tons of Picolit. Grape production per vine must not exceed 2 kg as far as red grapes are concerned, 2.7 kg for white grapes (Verduzzo and Ribolla Gialla) and 1.3 kg for Picolit grapes. However, per company’s policy, the actual production is much lower and it never exceeds one kilo of grapes per vine.
Significant work has been done for years on older vineyards, at the moment 4,500 vines per hectare are being thickened and the sandbank lowered based on the Guyot method. The new vineyards are organized following the Guyot principle with an investment on no less than 5,000 vines per hectare. Great care is taken in new vineyards and research is carried out to find suitable graft-bearing stump to fit the different varieties and types of soil. Grafts, on the other hand, come from a meticulous mass selection carried out in the vineyards to get a significant improvement in quality while maintaining the natural genetic properties of the wines and respecting the typical features, which characterize them.
Schioppettino
The earliest written mentions of Schioppettino date back to 1282 on manuscripts now kept in the Albana Castle, in the Prepotto province. Historically, this grape has different names in different regions, according to the language of the land: Sclopetin (Friuli), Pocalza (Slovenia) and Ribolla Nera (Italy). Since its origins, Schioppettino has always been grown in a very small area on the southern hills of the Prepotto county. Traditionally, two “cru” stand out for quality: Cialla and Albana.
There were approximately a hundred or more local vineyards in Friuli and Schioppettino was quite well known and liked outside the region, its reputation reaching as far as central Europe. Unluckily, most of those vineyards were destroyed between 1800 and 1900 with the spread of terrible grape diseases like “oidio” and “fillossera”. Eventually, the cultivation was completely abandoned after World War I and II, as Cialla was close to the front line and workers were recruited in the army.
After the war, traditional grapes were replaced with foreign types (Cabernet, Merlot, Blaufrankisch ecc.), which were easier to grow and more marketable, resulting in the loss of a range of indigenous kinds that was unique in the world!
In 1970, the only traces of Schiopettino were in ancient manuscripts and in the memory of the elders. Paolo and Dina Rapuzzi managed to find about 70 surviving vines in the valley and nearby, which enabled them to create a whole new vineyard and resuscitate Schioppettino.
From the very first test of vineyard, it was evident that Schioppettino would age perfectly and could match the best international grapes with its elegance, complexity and finesse.
Ronchi di Cialla was one of the first winemakers to adopt integrated agriculture, with low environmental impact. As a matter of fact, all vineyards are planted with grass adopting natural methods; parasite control (both fungi and arthropods) is kept to its minimum degree by using highly transitory contact or biological products only, in order to get top quality grapes, which are totally free of chemical residues. Fungi is controlled by a computerized micro-climatic central unit, while bugs are monitored by means of specific female pheromones traps. All agronomic operations are handled the owners with the cooperation of the well-known agronomist Pierpaolo Sirch.
As the result of a limited yield imposed by cru Cialla rules, the grape harvest is rigorously carried out by hand, and selectively harvested at the right time and with the maximum amount of care to obtain a qualitatively perfect product. Vinification is carried out naturally in line with the philosophy of not forcing the transformation and aging phases, which always privileges the “typicality” given to cru wine. The work carried out in the wine cellar is dealt with by the owners with the cooperation of the wine expert Roberto Cipresso.
The maturing of the wines in barrels with a personalized dosage of wood (French bay oaks) and toasted oak staves, makes Ronchi di Cialla wines among the highest quality Italian wines and absolutely the first white wines (1977) to use this old nature wine stabilization process. Subsequently, the wines are bottled; the bottles, which are numbered in sequence, are made to settle in the darkness of wine cellars until, thanks to long and undisturbed meditation, theyfully mature. It is up to the sensitiveness and experience of the producers to look after them during their aging, to achieve the “right” taste, which from that moment onwards will increasingly develop the personality and typicality of cru Cialla over the years.
The making of red wines
The red grapes reach the wine cellar and are immediately separated. They are then made to ferment inside a steel container where maceration takes place; during this process two different ‘délestages’ per day take place in order to solve tannins and stabilize color.
After 20-25 days, this phase is completed and wine is taken to ‘barriques’, where malolactic fermentation is completed; it then rests on its own sediments for at least one year. The wood ‘cuvee’ consists of 50% new barriques every year and 50% barriques, which have already been used – but in one cycle only.
The addition of sulphurous anhydride (always in very low proportions) is made before the summer of the following year and then kept unchanged. Once refinement inside the oak barrels is over, the wine is poured in bottles where it stays for a period of at least two years before being sold.
The making of white wines
The white grapes reach the wine cellar and are immediately separated and pressed. After a first decantation, the must thus obtained is made to ferment on its own sediments inside ‘barriques’ and stays there for approximately 11 months.
The wood ‘cuvee’ consists of 25% new ‘barriques’ and the rest consists of ‘barriques’ used for 2 cycles maximum – in decreasing percentages. Once refinement inside oak barrels is over, the wine is poured into bottles where it stays for a period of at least 6 months before being sold.
Raisin wines (Picolit)
This winemaking process dates back to an ancient tradition in Friuli according to which, ever since the XVII century, Picolit was considered one of “…the most precious wines, which distinguished themselves at the courts of kings and queens all over Europe ….”
Tradition teaches us that a few days before harvesting, when grapes are still on the vine –– it is necessary to cut the shoots supporting grape bunches for a first partial withering of the grapes on the plant (this operation, in the Friuli language has been known as “tajà lis strezzis” “to cut off locks”). Then grapes are harvested and put – by one layer only – into suitable wood cassettes, half of these grapes are set up in a naturally ventilated room to wither at length – until mid December, resulting in a 60% decrease in weight. .
The must thus obtained contains a high concentration of sugars and extracts, it is made to ferment in small oak barrels, so that fermentation can continue until the following spring. It is then added to the remaining Picolit and, after a natural static decantation, the wine is poured into bottles for a long period of slow refinement before being marketed.
It is thus possible to get a great wine endowed with structure and roundness, as well as freshness and elegant floral fragrances: features of the famous Picolit wine of Cialla.
Wines improvement in ‘barriques’, with personalized wood dosing (French oaks) and stave toasting, makes Ronchi di Cialla one of the first companies in Italy, and the very first one as for white wines (1977), which adopted this ancient procedure of natural wine stabilization.
Such company choices allow high quality wines to be obtained, wines which express their strong personality and the typical properties of Cialla cru while aging.
The work carried out in the wine cellar is dealt with by the owners with the cooperation of the wine expert Roberto Cipresso.
Important stages in the development of the
Schioppettino project in Cialla
1970: Paolo and Dina Rapuzzi founded the Ronchi di Cialla vineyard with the intent of growing exclusively indigenous Friuli grapes and produce great ageing wines but had to face several technical and bureaucracy problems in order to recover the Schioppettino vines, whose cultivation, by the way, was no longer allowed legally as the grape itself was thought to be exhausted.
1976: The Rapuzzi vineyard received the first “Risit d’aur” award for bringing Schioppettino back into his natural habitat of Cialla di Prepotto, in spite of the absurd laws stating its extinction. In the same here, its cultivation was declared legal again.
1977: First vintage of Schioppettino.
1978: On March 14th, a legal statement with the results of the 1977 vintage was released and made available to the press and connoisseurs confirming 35 hectolitres of Schiopettino had been produced and were currently fermenting before being poured in wooden oaks of 225 litres each to age for 6-8 months. According to this document, the texture of the liquid was remarkable and let foresee the wine distinguished character.
1983: The geographical boundaries of the original Schioppettino’s valley of Cialla are established.
1989: Schioppettino became DOC Colli Orientali del Friuli.
1995: Law 164 was published in the Official Gazette no. 278/95 the disciplinary code of the Cialla. Until now, Ronchi di Cialla is known as the only one in Italy that produces wines from 5 native vineyards Schioppettino, Refosco from the Red Peduncolo, Ribolla, Verduzzo and Picolit.
2001: On January 12th, the 1986 and 1988 Schioppettino di Cialla were auctioned at Christie’s in New York along the best Italian and French brands.
2001: May 19-20th, In the presence of a public notary, the company Ronchi Cialla issues the “1st Call for topping up” for the prestigious vintages Schioppettino 1985’s and Verduzzo 1983’s. The Calla Company proceeded with the operation of refilling a limited number of bottles: some owned by Rapuzzi family, and others owned by other customers.
2002: June 8th marked the 25th anniversary of Schioppetino’s rebirth. Its evolution was displayed in a tasting for a selected experts commission through 6 signature vintages (’77. ’80, ’83, ’85, ’90 and ’98) which received very positive feedback. The experts were impressed with the ever-growing improvement of the product and the enhancement of its expression due to the long aging periods.
2003: May 10th, “2nd Call for topping up”. In the presence of a notary and of Rapuzzi Family are topped up: Schioppettino, Refosco dal peduncle Red, Picolit and Verduzzo vintage 1977. The refilled bottles are property of the Ronchi of Cialla and of their most prestigious clients.
The wine
The Whites
RIBOLLA GIALLA
Varietal: 100% Ribolla Gialla
Geographical Location: Cialla Valley in the commune of Prepotto (Udine) – Friuli.
Vineyard: Vescul 3.00 ha; South West exposure; altitude: 130 – 150m; family-owned. Quercigh; 2.50 ha; terraced hills; South South-East exposure; altitude: 130 – 240; family-owned.
Average age of vines: 25-50 years.
Vinification: Fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel barrels preceded by a one-day skin maceration; local yeasts; natural static decantation. Aging on lees for at least three months with frequent batonnage.
Color: Pale straw yellow with fleeting green reflections that reinvigorate the color. Bright.
Bouquet: To the nose, it expresses freshness and vivacity; the aromas are elegant, with a bread crust fragrance, fruity notes of apple and pear on a floral and mineral background.
Taste: To the taste, it expresses great freshness and typicality, intensified by a perfect acid framework and mineralities. The finish is consistent, fresh and flavorful. Great balance and drinkability.
Pairings: Dishes based on fish, shellfish and mollusks, vegetarian starters, good-quality sausages. Great with Sushi and Sashimi. Perfect also on its own, as an apéritif.
Serving Temperature: 10-12°C. - Uncork the bottle upon serving.
FRIULANO
Varietal: 100% Friulano
Geographical Location: Hills to the North-East of Lonzano, Dolegna del Collio, in the province of Gorizia
Vineyard: Lonzano; 1.50ha; East-South East exposure; altitude: 120 – 160m;
Average age of vines: 50 years
Vinification: Fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel barrels preceded by a one-day skin maceration; local yeasts; natural static decantation. Aging on lees for at least three months with frequent batonnage.
Color: Pale straw yellow with sharp green reflections. Bright.
Bouquet: Complex and elegant nose; floral notes are prevalent, revived by freshness and minerality.
Taste: Great elegance and typicality; balanced acidity; attractive savory aftertaste that lingers on the palate.
Pairings: Fish-based dishes; San Daniele ham; vegetable starters. Excellent as an apéritif too.
Serving Temperature: 10-12°C. - Uncork the bottle upon serving.
CIALLABIANCO
Varietal: 60% Ribolla Gialla, 30% Picolit, 10% Verduzzo
Geographical Location: Cialla Valley in the commune of Prepotto (Udine) - Friuli.
Vineyard: Quercigh; 4.69 ha; terraced hills; South-South East exposure; altitude: 130 – 240m; family-owned.
Average age of vines: 40+ years..
Vinification: Fermentation of grapes in barriques and subsequent maturation in the same barriques for 11 months. Additional 20 months of aging in bottles. Suitable for aging.
Color: Straw yellow.
Bouquet: The bouquet is very subtle and elegant, with hints of pear, apple and plum fruit, of vanilla and with a floral note (acacia and jasmine).
Taste: Dry, full-bodied with very well-balanced acidity and refined minerality; it reflects perfumes with grace and elegance; remarkable character and unique personality.
Pairings: Appetizers based on fish and shellfish; creamy soups; Haute Cuisine seawater fish and fresh water fish both stewed or cooked in sauce; egg-based dishes and vegetable soufflés; white meat cooked in sauce; ham. Medium flavored cheeses with a floral crust.truffles.
Serving Temperature: 10-12°C. - Uncork the bottle upon serving
SOL
Varietal: 100% Picolit
Geographical Location: Cialla Valley in the commune of Prepotto (Udine) – Friuli.
Vineyard: Only in the best vintages and from a rigorous selection of the grapes produced in the Picolit/PICOLISCJS vineyard; 1.03.94 ha; terraced hills; soil: Eocene marl; South exposure; altitude 250-300 m; family-owned.
Average age of vines: 20 + years.
Vinification: 1 or 2 day-skin-contact; fermentation follows, carried out by only local yeasts, in barriques. Subsequent maturation in the same barriques for 24 months. Additional 24 months of aging in bottle. Suitable for aging.
Color: Straw yellow load.
Bouquet: Opulent and rich bouquet albeit very elegant; the floral notes are mixed with hints of chestnut and acacia honey and a marked minerality.
Taste:Soft and full-bodied attack that recalls the olfactory range with coherence; the finish is surprisingly fresh and elegant thanks to the strong mineral and balsamic notes. Great austerity and character.
Pairings: Alone, it is a great ‘meditation’ wine but it is very well accompanied by tagliolini with roe, shellfish and cheeses, even full-flavor ones.
Serving Temperature: 12-14°C. - Uncork the bottle a few hours before serving.
Sweet
Rose
ROSE DI CIALLLA
Varietal: 100% Refosco from the Peduncolo Rosso
Geographical Location: Cialla Valley in the commune of Prepotto (Udine) – Friuli.
Vineyard:Cernetig: 0.70 ha; terraced hills; soil: Eocene marl; South- South East exposure; altitude 200-230m.
Average age of vines: 25 + years.
Vinification: Maceration on the skins for 18 hours, followed by very soft pressing. Fermentation of the free-run must (mosto fiore) in steel tanks at controlled temperature. Aging on lees for 4 months with batonage 3 times a week. Vinified, bottled and stored in our property’s cellar in the best conditions to guarantee quality.
Color: Powder pink, bright.
Bouquet: Fresh and fruity, it recalls small red fruits on a finely spiced background.
Taste: Fresh, persistent and fruity, complemented by citrus notes and minerals. Very balanced acid framework.
Pairings: Very elegant and versatile wine that goes well with fish and shellfish dishes, appetizers made with vegetables, delicate first courses. Ideal for the summer season as an apéritif.
Serving Temperature: 8-10°C. - Uncork the bottle upon serving.
The Reds
PICOLIT CIALLA
Varietal: 100% Picolit
Geographical Location: Cialla Valley in the commune of Prepotto (Udine) – Friuli.
Vineyard:Picolit/Picoliscjs; 1.03.94 ha; terraced hills; soil: Eocene marl; South exposure; altitude: 250-300 m; family-owned.
Average age of vines: 25 + years.
Vinification: Half of the grapes is late harvested at the end of October with more or less consistent development of the Noble Rot; the other half withers in vine. Spontaneous fermentation of the must in French oak barrels and subsequent maturation in the same barrels for at least 20 months. Additional 24 months of aging in bottle. Suitable for very long aging; particular vintages can age over 40 years.
Color: Gold yellow, vivid and bright.
Bouquet: Full and exceptionally elegant bouquet: an exhilarating aroma of acacia flowers and candied orange peel; considerable minerality and spicy notes.
Taste: Sweet but balanced, firm and aristocratic; it has decisive vigor and reflects with great elegance the olfactory repertoire.
Pairings: Great "meditation" wine, but also excels on foie gras, spicy cheeses and dry pastry.
Serving Temperature: 10-12°C. - Uncork the bottle upon serving.
VERDUZZO DI CIALLA
Varietal: Verduzzo friulano di Cialla 100%
Geographical Location: Cialla, Prepotto (Udine) Friuli – North-east of Italy.
Vineyard: Cernetigh, 0.90 hectares of hilly lands consisting of Eocene marls and facing SSE at an altitude of 180-225 m.; owned.
Aging Wine grower: three years consisting of a 12 months’ maturation in oak barrels and 24 months’ aging in bottles. Consumer: wine suitable to age. Special vintage years may reach 25 years’ aging, in a “crescendo”.
Color: Golden yellow with fleeting amber reflections.
Bouquet: Extraordinarily rich, elegant bouquet (honey, acacia flowers and apricot).
Taste: Strong, warm and sensual, although subtle and elegant; full round wine, rich in character.
Pairings: Biscuits and sweets without cream. Mature vintage years are suitable for hot and cold hors d'oeuvres based on goose live’oeuvre based on goose liver; duck and pigeon terrines; seafood; pumpkin and plum gnocchi; soufflés and fish dumplings; sauté of fresh salmon; tasty cheeses.
Serving Temperature: 10-12°C. - Uncork the bottle upon serving.
REFOSCO
Varietal: 100% Refosco from the Peduncolo Rosso.
Geographical Location: Cialla Valley in the commune of Prepotto (Udine) – Friuli.
Vineyard: Cernetig; 1.10 ha; South, South-West exposure; altitude: 200-230m; family-owned
Average age of vines: 20 + years.
Vinification: Maceration in stainless steel barrels at controlled temperature for about 15 days; local yeasts; racking without pressing of the skins; natural static decantation with elimination of the malolactic fermentation; further 12 months on lees in steel barrels. Followed by aging in bottles for at least six months. Suitable for long periods of aging.
Color: Deep ruby red and bright with violet reflections.
Bouquet: Elegant and fruity bouquet. Hints of ripe cherries, blackberry and small red berries on delicate balsamic notes.
Taste: Dry, moderately tannic, elegant and complex.
Pairings: Roasted white and red meat; meats with light sauces; Vicentina-style codfish; fried fish; free-range farmed poultry. Great alone as an apéritif.
Serving Temperature: 16-18°C. - Uncork the bottle upon serving.
PIGNOLO
Varietal: 100% Pignolo
Harvest: Selective hand-picked harvest. Harvest Time: mid-October.
Soil: Eocene Marne and Marnous sandstones.
Geographical Location:Cialla Valley in the commune of Prepotto (Udine) – Friuli.
Vineyard: Squarzulis: 0.30ha. Terraced hills; East- South-East exposure; altitude: 240-270; family-owned. Cernetig: 0.70Ha. Terraced hills; South exposure; altitude: 150-170; family-owned.
Average age of vines: 16 years.
Vinification: At the producer’s; prolonged maceration for about 20 days; pump-over twice daily; local yeasts; maturation in French oak barrels (80%) and Slavonian Oak (20%) for 30 months followed by a further 20 months of aging in bottle; potential further aging at the purchaser’s: 10-15 years.
Color: Dark ruby red with violet reflections.
Bouquet: Warm and vinous. The ripe red fruits prevail on pleasantly spicy and balsamic notes.
Taste: Full and voluminous, warm; soft tannins and balanced acidity; very long and lingering aftertaste.
Pairings: Excellent with roasted or grilled meat and game.
Serving Temperature: 18-20°C. - Open the bottle a few hours before, or alternatively decant it.
REFOSCO DAL PEDUNCOLO ROSSO DI CIALLA
Varietal:100% Refosco from the Peduncolo Rosso.
Harvest: Selective hand-picked harvest - Early October.
Soil: Eocene Marne and Marnous sandstone
Geographical Location: Cialla Valley in the commune of Prepotto (Udine) – Friuli.
Vineyard: Roncjs; 1.72 ha. terraced hills; South-South-East exposure; altitude: 150-165m; family-owned
Average age of vines: 50 years.
Vinification: At the producer’s; prolonged maceration for 4 weeks; local yeasts; pump-over twice daily; maturation in French oak barrels (90%) and Slavonian oak (10%) for 14-18 months followed by an additional 50 months of aging in bottles. Potential further aging at the purchaser’s: 20-25 years. Particular vintages are gradually reached at a much later age.
Color: Intense ruby red with fleeting purple reflections
Bouquet: Warm and intense bouquet. Immediate taste of cherry and blackberry jam, composed of spicy notes such as graphite; when young, it is full and voluminous; when aged, it is enriched with elegant sensations that recall licorice and spices.
Taste: In the mouth it is immediately voluminous, warm and well-balanced; the mineral complexity is enriched by the sweet tannin, which enhances its verticality. At the rear of the mouth, the sensation is full and fragrant. It is potent, rich, modern and at the same time austere; powerful structure and character of great elegance.
Pairings: Red meat roasts; furred game; grilled mixed meat or stewed in red wine; Italian-style salamis, full-flavor cheeses (not spicy).
Serving Temperature: 18°C. - Uncork the bottle a few minutes before, or even earlier, according to the aging of the vintage.
SCHIOPPETTINO DI CIALLA
Varietal: 100% Schioppettino
Harvest: Selective hand-picked harvest. Harvesting time: second half of October.
Soil: Eocene Marne and Marnous sandstone, alternated with carbonatic blocks.
Geographical Location: Cialla Valley in the commune of Prepotto (Udine) – Friuli.
Vineyard: Cjastenet; 3.00 ha; South, South-West exposure; altitude: 150-200m; Roncjs; 0.56 ha; terraced hills; South, South-East exposure; altitude: 165-180m; family-owned.
Average age of vines: 50 years.
Vinification: At the producer’s. Prolonged maceration for 4-5 weeks; local yeasts; pump-over twice daily. Maturation in French oak barriques for 14-18 months and further aging in bottles for 30-36 months. Potential aging at the purchaser’s: 20-25 years. Particular vintages are gradually reached at a much later age.
Color: Balanced ruby red with bright reflections.
Bouquet: Bouquet of exceptional elegance and personality. The clearest aromas are those of white pepper and small red fruits, currants and blackberries, intriguing balsamic and undergrowth (sous-bois) notes.
Taste: Flavorful, with fruity sensations, well-balanced minerality; the support tannin is fragrant and well ripe. Although a wine of good structure, it has a refined and almost silky balance; it is baroque, aristocratic, of great elegance and long life; full character and racy.
Pairings: It combines with elegant dishes that recall the spiciness and finesse of the wine. It also marries well with traditional dishes such as roasted white and red meat; meat with light sauces; free-range poultry and feathered game; mushroom-based dishes, medium and hard crust cheeses, medium-flavored cheeses. With aging, it acquires complexity and elegance and is an excellent accompaniment to white and summer truffles.
Serving Temperature: 18°C. - Uncork the bottle a few minutes earlier, or more, depending on the age of the vintage.