Benanti

91 - Contrada Cavaliere Rosso 2017

Bright red. Savory herbs, flowers, and red fruit aromas and flavors. Rich, round and ripe but with good acid lift, this is more vibrant and floral than the 2017 Etna Rosso Monte Serra from though it is also a touch less refined. Finishes long, with youthfully chewy tannins and with lots of size and flesh. Will appeal more to those who like their wines bigger rather than perfumed, but it’s hard to argue with this wine’s charm and fun in-your-face personality. Made from grapes of the two Nerello varieties grown at roughly 900 meters above sea level on the southwest slope of Etna.

Ever since they took the helm of the winery in 2012, with many new labels launched and new vineyard acquisitions and sales, siblings Salvino and Alberto Benanti have been leading the estate into a new dimension, one that they like to characterize as an “evolution of continuity,” assisted by historical collaborators such as their in-house winemaker Enzo Calì (full-time at Benanti since 2004) and their commercial director Agatino Failla (with them since 2011). The recent new bottlings continue in the same vein as what has been done at the estate since its beginning back in 1990, when they started bottling wines clearly linked to a specific terroir; for example, the Rovittello Etna Rosso from the volcano’s northern slope in the commune of Castiglione di Sicilia, and even the Nerello Cappuccio monovariety bottling, made with grapes picked on Etna’s southwestern flank in the territory of Santa Maria di Licodia. The Benantis are now aiming to produce as many as six different contrada wines. In 2019, they launched the first two, the Etna Bianco Contrada Cavaliere and the Etna Rosso Contrada Cavaliere.

91 - Etna Rosso DOC 2015

Lovely bright dark red color. Slightly reticent aromas of red cherry, rosehip, raspberry and minerals. Then lively and balanced, with juicy red berry and sweet spice flavors. Finishes with bright acidity and rising but polished tannins. An outstanding Etna Rosso; not the last word in concentration or complexity but grows on you on the finish. A blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio that clocks in at a well balanced 13% alcohol.

92 - Etna Rosso DOC 2016

Vivid ruby-red. Captivating aromas of red cherry, red currant, minerals and quinine soar from the glass. Deeper, richer and flintier than the entry-level Etna Rosso from the same vintage, this offers lots of plump juicy red fruit and savory herb flavors. Closes long with repeating floral and red fruit notes. Made with Nerello Mascalese grapes growing on the south-eastern slopes of Etna in the Contrada Monte Serra. Fermented in stainless steel and aged in neutral large oak casks. The Monte Serra terroir is one of the volcano's most interesting, but can suffer from drought in hot, dry years, though there was no such worry in 2016.

Ever since they took the helm of the winery in 2012, with many new labels launched and new vineyard acquisitions and sales, siblings Salvino and Alberto Benanti have been leading the
estate into a new dimension, one that they like to characterize as an “evolution of continuity,” assisted by historical collaborators such as their in-house winemaker Enzo Calì (full-time at Benanti since 2004) and their commercial director Agatino Failla (with them since 2011). The recent new bottlings continue in the same vein as what has been done at the estate since its beginning back in 1990, when they started bottling wines clearly linked to a specific terroir; for example, the Rovittello Etna Rosso from the volcano’s northern slope in the commune of Castiglione di Sicilia, and even the Nerello Cappuccio monovariety bottling, made with grapes picked on Etna’s southwestern flank in the territory of Santa Maria di Licodia. The Benantis are now aiming to produce as many as six different contrada wines. In 2019, they launched the first two, the Etna Bianco Contrada Cavaliere and the Etna Rosso Contrada Cavaliere.

93 - Nerello Cappuccio IGT 2015

Bright ruby. Perfumed aromas of raspberry and red cherry are complicated by minerals and sweet spices. Lively, juicy and crisp, with suave red berry flavors and a long captivating, very fruity and smooth finish. An outstanding Nerello Cappuccio, quite likely one of the three best Benanti has ever made. (12.5% alcohol)

91 - Pietramarina Bianco Superiore DOC 2013

Vivid dark straw. Botanical herbs, guava, candied lemon peel and white flowers on the nose and in the mouth. Bright and juicy with a tactile mouthfeel that lingers long with savory, almost creamy nuances. A richer and therefore atypical Pietra Marina, and also less marked by that saline freshness and lemony acidity that so much characterize this wine in most vintages. Though some will appreciate this wine being less steely and slightly richer on the palate than usual, I’m not sure I do; and it’s also not what Carricante is, in my view, really about. Given that Pietramarina is one of Italy’s five or six best white wines, my hope is that this is just a reflection of vintage diversity and not a permanent stylistic change (longtime winemaker Salvo Foti is no longer with the winery). (12.5% alcohol) -- Ian D'Agata

92 - Rosso di Verzella DOC 2013

Bright red. Aromas of fresh red berries and pungent herbs are complicated by mineral and floral nuances. Dense, juicy and bright in the mouth, with sweet, floral red berry flavors lifted by lively acidity. Multilayered but youthfully discreet. The red berry flavors linger long on the vibrant finish. This superb wine is quite Pinot Noir-like.

90 - Rovittello Etna Rosso DOC 2013

Bright red-ruby. Pungent floral nuances enliven red cherry and berry aromas and flavors. Bright and juicy with polished tannins on the long vibrant finish which features an aromatic but refined green nuance. A blend of mainly Nerello Mascalese with a little Nerello Cappuccio, from grapes grown at about 750 meters above sea level on the north slope of Etna. (13.5% alcohol) -- Ian D'Agata

95 - Rovittello Etna Rosso DOC 2014

Deep vivid red. Brooding aromas and flavors hint at pencil shavings, red currant jelly, red cherry nectar, yellow flowers, coffee and herbs. Dense and tactile but also very fruity in the mouth, expressing a noteworthy steely quality. In fact, much more steely than the 2014 Serra della Contessa, and so less immediately juicy/fruity but rather more taut and classically austere at this present time of development. Ought to age splendidly. From very old vines grown at 750 meters above sea level on the northern slopes of Etna.

91 - Serra Della Contessa DOC 2013

Bright red. Clean crisp sweet red cherry, strawberry aromas and flavors with minerals and pungent floral hints. Finishes long and bright, with juicy acidity and lavender notes. A blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio grown at about 500 meters asl on the south-east slope of Etna. (13.5% alcohol)

94 - Serra Della Contessa DOC 2014

Deep red. Perfumed violet, rose and red cherry. Profoundly rich and round but still very young, with chewy, slightly tough tannins and lots of vibrant acidity extending the mineral red cherry flavors on the back end. Made from the south-eastern slope of Mount Etna from very old vines planted at about 500 meters above sea level. Well done; this is potentially very great.

Bonavita

91 - Faro DOC 2015

Good full red-ruby. Elements of tar and botanical herbs complicate red cherry and blue fruit aromas and flavors. Rich and dense with a youthful, chewy texture and a lingering note of licorice on the tactile finish. An excellent example of what Faro can deliver (the 2016, which I tasted from barrel is even better and promises to be a real knockout), this is a blend of 70% Nerello Mascalese, 20% Nerello Cappuccio and 10% Nocera. The wine ages two years in used 30hL French oak barrels (up to 2012 the wine was aged in barriques and larger oak barrels, but the barriques have since been done away with as it was felt they imparted too much of an oaky presence) and stainless steel, then spends another ten-twelve months in bottle before being released.

Borgo del Tiglio

91 - Collio Bianco DOC 2015

Vivid straw yellow. Honeyed nuances complicate aromas and flavors of herbs, apple, pear and wet stones. Big and bright with good juicy cut to the youthfully chewy and peppery flavors of pomaceous orchard fruit. Finishes long and full-bodied. -- Ian D'Agata

92 - Collio Ronco della Chiesa DOC 2015

Luminous pale straw-yellow. Slightly reticent aromas of honey, banana, and sweet spices. Big, rich and dense with lively but harmonious acidity providing clarity and cut to the ripe stone fruit and honeyed flavors. Finishes long and pure. A very good wine, but the hot year makes this less typical of the Tocai Friulano variety than in past vintages; readers should note that the Ronco della Chiesa is usually one of Italy’s best twenty or so whites in practically every vintage.

Bruno Rocca

94 - Curra Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2013

The 2013 Barbaresco Riserva Currà is a wine of total class and refinement. Lifted and aromatic, with striking perfume, this mid-weight, polished Barbaresco has a lot to offer. Scents of sweet pipe tobacco, dried cherry, herb, anise and menthol add to the wine's complexity and nuance. The long, persistent finish, firm tannins and soaring perfume are classic Currà.-- Antonio Galloni

96 - Maria Adelaide Barbaresco 2013

The 2013 Barbaresco Maria Adelaide is a selection of the best fruit from both Rabajà and Currà. It is also the most overtly ample and creamy of these wines. Here, too, the wine's balance is simply compelling. Moreover, the natural power of Rabajà and the nerve of Currà are hugely complementary. The 2013 spent eighteen months in French oak. So much has changed here over the last few years. The Maria Adelaide remains the Barbaresco that is most closely linked to the wines Bruno Rocca made when he was solely in charge of the estate.

91 - Barbera d'Asti DOCG 2017

The 2017 Barbera d'Asti is dark, sumptuous and super-expressive, with striking interplay of richness from the warm, dry year and more mineral/savory notes typical of Asti that lurk beneath. Ripe dark cherry, plum, mocha, spice and licorice all develop in a flamboyant, concentrated Barbera that will drink well right out of the gate. This is impeccably done. The 2017 spent a year in French oak, but the wood is not especially evident. -- Antonio Galloni

90 - Curra Barbaresco DOCG 2016

The 2016 Barbaresco Currà is a very pretty, translucent wine. Sweet tobacco, incense, dried flowers and cedar give the 2016 lovely aromatic nuance. Here too, I find the wine a bit light, while the energy that is such a signature of this site is not really developed. -- Antonio Galloni

96 - Rabaja Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2013

Rocca's 2013 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà captures all of the pure power that is such a signature of this justifiably famous site. Even though the 2013 was just bottled, it is deeply expressive and ample. Naturally, the aromatics and flavors need time to fully open up, but the wine's pedigree is obvious, even at this early stage. This is another impressive showing from the Rocca family. The 2013 Barbaresco Riserva emerges from a parcel in Rabajà that is separate from the estate's historic holdings and that is located in the southern part of the vineyard, closer to Cortese.

94 - Rabaja Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2014

The 2014 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà is dark, dense and powerful, with muscular tannins, all of which give the wine its distinctive brooding feel. There is real depth and substance in the glass. Some of the new oak influence (from a new cask in 2014) needs to integrate, but there is plenty of potential here. Sweet red cherry, hard candy, wild flowers and mint are some of the many notes that develop in the glass.

90 - Trifole Dolcetto d'Alba 2017

The 2017 Dolcetto d'Alba Trifolè is one of the most interesting Dolcettos I tasted this year. Rocca vinified the 2017 in the same wood vats he uses for his top Barbarescos and gave the fruit 15 days on the skins, which is quite long. Ripe, racy with all of the richness of the year in evidence, the 2017 nevertheless retains a super-classic mid-weight sense of structure. It is a wine of remarkable nuance and detail.

90 - Trifole Dolcetto d'Alba 2018

The 2018 Dolcetto d'Alba Trifolè is like a wine from another era, with mid-weight structure, floral lift and modest alcohol of just 13%. Super-varietal and polished, Rocca's 2018 is what Dolcetto is all about. The approach of fermentation in oak and aging in steel works beautifully here.

Caiarossa

 92 - Aria IGT 2012

An addition to the range, the Aria di Caiarossa is plump, juicy and opulent. Dark cherry, mocha, plum, raspberry jam and spice fill out the wine's broad-shouldered frame effortlessly. Open-knit and generous throughout, the Aria di Caiarossa is the ripest and most overt of the estate's 2011s, but it is quite delicious just the same.

93 - Caiarossa 2011

A striking, radiant wine, the 2011 Caiarossa is one of the better wines I have tasted from this property. Mocha, plum, espresso and dark spices all flesh out in a warm, inviting red that captures the essence of the Tuscan coast. All the elements meld together effortlessly. The 2011 is intense but never heavy. I imagine the 2011 will offer a decade or so of fine drinking. This is a terrific showing.

Capichera

91 - Lianti Carignano Isola dei Nuraghi IGT 2015

Opaque-purple. Perfumed, ripe aromas of dark fruit, vanilla, and sweet spices. Clean and fresh with very pure, flinty blackberry flavors and tangy acidity nicely framing the slightly chunky tannins. Finishes long and juicy with hints of coffee and cocoa. This is extremely concentrated and rich for an entry-level wine. A blend of 97% Carignano and 3% Syrah, the grapes come mainly from the estate vineyard in Palau. The word lianti means “to the east” or “east” in the local Sardinian dialect.

93 - Santigaini Vermentino Isola dei Nuraghi IGT 2011

Bright straw-yellow with a golden tinge. The intense, mineral-dominated nose evokes nectarine, guava and white flowers, plus hints of crystallized ginger and cinnamon. Racy, strikingly pure stone and tropical fruit flavors are lifted by vibrant mineral and floral elements. Closes with outstanding energy, cut and length, with lingering notes of citrus zest, mint and minerals and an insidious sweetness.

93 - Santigaini Vermentino Isola dei Nuraghi IGT 2014

Bright golden-tinged straw. Captivating aromas and flavors of crystallized ginger, pear nectar, apricot, candied mint, and fresh wild fennel. Bright and fresh yet rich and creamy, concentrated but very light on its feet. The finish is very long and vibrant, with noteworthy saline and citrus bite. This is an absolutely gorgeous wine. First made in 2003, Santigaini (which means October in the Gallurese dialect) is barrel fermented in oak at 16-18°c for four weeks and aged in barriques, tonneaux and large barrels, of which roughly 33% are new.

92 - Vign'angena Vermentino di Gallura DOCG 2016

Bright straw-yellow. Fresh, piercing aromas of apple, pear, herbs and sea breeze. Then rich and dense, showing a tactile quality to the pear, aromatic herb and stony flavors. Finishes long, with a peppery hint of crystallized ginger. This is Capichera’s entry-level Vermentino, and in terms of both concentration and density, it is head and shoulders above all the others made on the island, a sure sign of the amazing talent the Ragnedda family is blessed with.

93 - Vigna'ngena Vermentio di Gallura DOCG 2014

Vivid straw-yellow. Captivating, youthfully reticent nose hints at peach, fresh citrus fruits, hazelnut and flint complicated by white flowers and botanical herbs. Extremely deep, pure and precise, showing a powerful crushed-stone character to its saline, balsamic, juicy citrus flavors; this reminded me of a grand cru Chablis. The long mineral-driven finish showcases repeating balsamic nuances. Boasts outstanding palate presence already, this wine will likely age another five or six years effortlessly. One of the ten best Italian white wines I tasted in 2015.-- Ian D'Agata

92 - Vign'angena Vermentio di Gallura DOCG 2015

Pale bright straw. Enticing aromas of yellow apple, pear, white peach, orange blossom, helycrisum, and minerals. Very fresh and clean, with piercing acidity lifting and extending the floral fruit flavors on the long back end. Savory and precise, this is an outstanding Vermentino di Gallura. The first vintage of this wine was the 1994, and its name refers to “foreign vineyard” (or vign’angena) as it was originally made with grapes from vineyards owned by the property but not close by the winery building. Today the wine is made with grapes grown from six different vineyards located all around the house, though once in awhile, grapes from the estate vineyard in Palau are also used to make this wine. No oak.

Castello Romitorio

92 - Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013

Bright red. Enticing aromas of violet, licorice and minerals. Fresh and juicy; saline, licorice and dark plum flavors are lifted by vibrant acidity. Finishes savory and long, with an enticing glyceral, fleshy quality. Aged about two years in large 20- to 45-hL Slavonian oak barrels and 500-liter tonneaux and is made with a 75%/25% blend of grapes from the vineyards in Romitorio and Castelnuovo dell’Abate, respectively.

94 - Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2015

Good full red. Tobacco, mint and earth notes complement red cherry aromas and !avors. Very fresh and precise, with a steely element to its red
fruit and herbal !avors that linger nicely on the clean, juicy and !oral "nish. Blessed with a relatively high but harmonious acid mouthfeel and impeccable balance, this will likely age better than many other 2015 Brunellos. 95 The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino is laced with spicy, dark red fruits, wild, sweet and spicy floral tones that give way to savory herbs, hints of animal musk and black earth. On the palate, it's soft, enveloping, almost creamy in texture and offset by a mix of savory spice, fine tannin and saturating mineral tones as black cherry and sage seem to hover on the senses. The finish is spicy and long, structured, but also with vibrant primary fruits holding on strong, as a twang of savory herbs lingers long.

92- Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2012

Bright red. Enticing aromas of red plum, Asian spices, candied violet and sandalwood. Then flavors similar to the aromas; polished tannins and a solid acid spine nicely extend the flavors on the long back end. The finish is very juicy and offers delicately spicy and herbal red berry nuances.

93+ - Filo di Seta Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013

Deep ruby. Tar and flowers mingle with red plum and peppery herbs on the nose and in the mouth. Juicy and spicy, with herbal nuances picking up steam on the spicy long, suavely tannic finish. An outstanding Brunello."Filo di Seta" is the name of a stream that runs right by the castle on the property.

95 - Filo di Seta Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2015

Deep red. Perfumed aromas of violet, redcurrant and red cherries are complicated by violet and minerals. Then juicy and fresh, with well-
integrated acidity nicely lifting and extending the red fruit and herbal Flavors on the long, vibrant finish. Deep, complex Brunello that is quite
polished and age-worthy. -- Ian D'Agata

96 - FILO DI SETA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO DOCG 2015

The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta is sourced from a selection of vines planted around the Romitorio winery, and showcases it’s high-elevation fruit (approximately 3,250 feet). Here I find a gorgeous and earthy bouquet of dusty soil, crushed stone, leather and dried red florals, as bright cherry comes forward, both lifting but also intensifying the experience. On the palate, soft textures envelope the senses in ripe dark red fruits, with spicy depths and a beam of laser like acids, as saline-minerals saturate the senses amidst pretty inner floral tones. The finish is long and structured, resonating of mineral-laden dark fruit, a twang of savory herbs and spices, with lasting fine tannins. This is gorgeous and built for the long haul.

97 - FILO DI SETA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO DOCG 2016

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta is a remarkably pretty and pure expression of the vintage. It impresses with a lifted yet stimulating display of bright red fruits and savory spice, framed by notes of crushed stone, animal musk and dusty florals. This boasts striking depth and elegant textures, all offset by a mix of tart wild berries and cool-toned acids, as salty minerals create an almost-crunchy feel toward the close. The tannins are firm yet rounded, displaying tremendous balance and length, as the 2016 Filo di Seta never grows tiring or youthfully clenched. That said, the best is yet to come for this complex and age-worthy effort. -- Eric Guido

92 - RomiToro Toscana IGT 2018

The 2018 Romitorio Toscana is fresh and lifted on the nose – unexpectedly so, showing smoky cherry and citrus-tinged blackberry with savory herbs. On the palate, silky textures contrast spicy raspberry fruit, as saline- minerals and zesty acids add grip under an air of inner violet
florals. The finish is long, showing saturating red berry tones and hints of youthful tannin. This blend of Syrah and Petit Verdot is already rocking, yet a few years of cellaring should reveal even further depths.

91 - Rosso di Montalcino 2018

The 2018 Castello Romitorio Rosso di Montalcino takes time to blossom in the glass, yet it is totally worth the wait. A pretty and understated display of cherry and strawberry mixed with dusty earth, roses and hints of undergrowth opens nicely. Soft, silky textures flood the palate with ripe red and hints of blue fruit, sweet yet perfectly contrasted by saline-minerality, along with hints of fine tannin that slowly mount toward the close. The finish is remarkably long, as notes of dried wild berries, blueberry skins and hints of violet florals linger.

Cerbaiona

93 - Brunello di Montalcino 2008

Succulent red cherries, dried roses, violets, tar and spices are some of the many notes that are woven together in the 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Intensely perfumed, the 2008 shows many of the classic Cerbaiona signatures, even if it is a touch less polished than some of the recent vintages. At the same time, the 2008 has come together nicely over the last few years, so it will be interesting to watch what happens with further time in bottle. Dried rose petals and spices add complexity to the subtle, layered flavors. This is one of the stronger wines of the year.

92 - Brunello di Montalcino 2009

Dark cherries, plums, mocha, dark spices and leather flesh out in the 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Layered and voluptuous in the glass, the 2009 is one of the best early drinking Brunellos I have ever tasted from Cerbaiona. Clean veins of minerality and graphite wrap around the fruit on the expressive finish. This is a strong showing from one of Montalcino's great artisan estates.

Corte Sant'Alda

88 - Valmezzane Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2012

Moderately saturated dark red. Clean black cherry, camphor and a coffee note on the nose. Suave in texture but peppery in the mouth, with a herbal quality suggesting only moderate ripeness. Finishes medium-long and a little dusty. Made from Demeter certified organically grown grapes. (15.5% alcohol)

Damiano Ciolli

94 - Cirsium Cesanese DOC Riserva 2015

Good full ruby. An extremely pungent floral quality (geranium, lavender, violet, peony and iris) lifts the red fruit-scented nose further complicated by quinine, cardamom and juniper; Gin lovers will love this. Bright, juicy and dense, with a Pinot Noir-like lightness of being and very pure flinty red cherry, rose petal and herbal nuances that linger impressively. Finishes long and suave with silky tannins and repeating floral notes. Spent 10 days on the skins and was fermented in cement with no temperature control; then moved one year to large oak barrels before spending another year in cement tanks. Cirsium is usually released to the market after another twelve–eighteen months in bottle. One of Italy’s truly great red wines made from Cesanese d’Affile and Comune vines planted in 1953. Ciolli has now rented another small historic vineyard of Cesanese Comune planted in 1944 that is situated close to the original Cirsium vineyard. This has allowed him to slightly increase the number of bottles he makes of Cirsium a year (depending on the vintage, there are roughly 3,000-4,500 bottles produced annually). Strangely enough, in the 2017 vintage it is the Cirsium that is more floral and lighter on its feet than the Silene.

93 - Silene Cesanese DOC Superiore 2017

Deep ruby. Concentrated aromas and flavors of dark plum, black cherry, botanical herbs and minerals. Suave, rich and dense, with a multilayered ripe quality that lingers impressively on the long smooth finish. Rather big and luscious for Silene, which is usually characterized by fresher red cherry, berry and floral notes, this big, opulent wine is a remarkable success in the difficult 2017 vintage. In fact, because of the extreme heat that characterized the 2017 growing season, the grapes were harvested in early September instead of the end of September/beginning of October as is customary in the area. Winemaker Letizia Rocchi’s ninety years old grandmother Fiorina remembers this was by far the earliest Cesanese grapes were ever picked at the estate. Depending on the vintage, about 16,000-25,000 bottles are made a year. One of the most atypical but also best Silene ever.

Dettori

91 - Chimbanta Monica IGT 2013

Deep ruby. Intense floral notes of peony, iris and lavender complicate blackberry, quinine, and balsamic aromas and flavors. A hint of refermentation greets the palate as is often the case with wines from Dettori, but this is smooth and long on the suave finish. The lack of all intervention in an effort to make the most natural wines possible means that there is a great deal of bottle variation with this estate’s wines: though when you do land a good bottle, such as was the case with me and this one, then the wines are usually outstanding.

91 - Dettori Bianco 2014 IGT

Cloudy yellow. Musky aromas of ginger, apple, orange blossom and earth. Finer-grained in the mouth than the Renosu bianco, offering subtle orchard fruit and earth flavors complicated by aromatic herbs. As soft as the acidity is, the wine also boasts very good clarity and cut. The flavors are rich, deep and persistent. Readers know that I’m not a big fan of orange wines, as I find that they offer little sense of place and often show a sameness regardless of where they are made and the grape varieties used, but this is about as good an example from Italy as you’ll ever try.

92 - Moscadeddu 2012

Dark yellow. Very pure aromas of orange blossom, grapefruit, apricot and spices. Thick but bright, and surprisingly sweet given the drier-styled 2011, but with terrific acidity providing the rich, tactile, peppery fruit flavors with a welcome focus. With its wonderful balance and cut, this strikes me as one of Dettori’s most successful Moscadeddus ever: it's amazing how successfully this wine camouflages its incredible 17.5% alcohol.

94 - Ottomarzo 2012

Healthy bright red. Knockout nose offers ripe red cherry, raspberry, minerals and white pepper, plus a complicating hint of underbrush. Very suave and refined on entry, then rich, ripe and loaded with spicy, sharply delineated red cherry and berry fruit flavors. Finishes very long, with silky tannins and great sophistication. Even taking Alessandro Dettori’s obvious talent into account, if he can make a wine this great from Pascale (and it’s not his first outstanding vintage of this wine), then it stands to reason that other producers ought to start looking into the merits of this long-forgotten Sardinian red variety.

92 - Ottomarzo IGT 2016

Opaque purple. Flinty and grapey nuances to the blueberry nectar aromas. Very fresh and bright, offering flavors of blueberry pie and minerals, a fresh mouthfeel and smooth tannins. Harmonious but vibrant acidity gives plenty of clarity and cut. A rare Ottomarzo that is strongly dominated by blue fruit (normally it is red fruit), this totally dry red wine is almost austere by Dettori’s standards. Made with Pascale, a local high-quality but unfortunately rare native variety that deserves better.

89 - Renosu Vino Bianco NV

Bright medium yellow. Pungent aromas of pear, lemon, quinine, gunflint and earth. Broad and off-dry, showing good lemony lift to its round flavors of fresh citrus fruits, pear and minerals. The modestly complex finish features very good persistence and an earthy nuance.

93 - Tenores 2012

Bright red. Subdued aromas of underbrush and spicy red cherry. Then suave, deep and round, with complex aromas of red cherry, cocoa, underbrush and aromatic herbs. Finishes smooth and tannic with no funky smells or hints of refermentation. This is actually a memorable wine from Dettori, but at a whopping 16.5% alcohol it’s no shrinking violet. In fact, this wine is so balanced and suave, nobody would likely ever guess this packs so many octanes

91 - Tuderi 2014

Bright red. Pungent aromas of wild herbs, flowers (lavender, iris, peony) and red cherry, then frankly sweet in the mouth; hints of hazelnut, coffee and pepper complicate the red cherry cordial flavors. Finishes long, with a peppery bite. This is an old-style Dettori wine (rich, luscious, sweet, a hint of refermentation), neatly contrasting with his more austere, more serious 2015 and 2016s, but it’s hard to argue with this wine’s luscious, almost port-like mouthfeel. Clearly, those looking for a dry red might want to look elsewhere. 16% alcohol but, once again, hardly noticeable. -- Ian D'Agata

Duemani

88 - Altrovino 2015

The 2015 Altrovino is a decidedly powerful wine. Bittersweet chocolate, plum, espresso and dark spice all reinforce that first impression. There is not a ton of subtlety. Instead, the 2015 speaks with a loud, at times brash, voice. It will be interesting to see if the 2015 gains a bit more finesse with time in bottle. -- Antonio Galloni

89 - Cifra 2016

The 2016 CiFra is juicy, fresh and vibrant, all qualities that make it an excellent choice for drinking now and over the next few years. The natural brightness and floral lift of Franc is very much on display in this attractive, mid-weight red. Aging in cement keeps the fruit fresh and vibrant. There is purity to the 2016 that is compelling. -- Antonio Galloni

91 - Cifra 2017

The 2017 CiFra, Duemani's entry-level Cabernet Franc, is dense and sumptuous in the glass, with all of its varietal character amped up by the richness of the year. Vinification and aging in cement helps retain a measure of freshness, but the 2017 nevertheless packs a serious punch. Rich, pliant fruit and soaring aromatics play off each other beautifully in this compelling wine from Luca D'Attoma and Eleonora Celli at Duemani. -- Antonio Galloni

93 - Cifra 2018

The 2018 Cifra is a total knockout. Fresh, vibrant and full of aromatic intensity, the 2018 boasts superb !avor intensity and exceptional balance. Inky red and purplish berry fruit, lavender, spice and dried !owers all race out of the glass in a boisterous, generous wine that hits all the right notes.

94 - Duemani 2013

The 2013 Duemani is closed and not fully expressive, but it nevertheless possesses plenty of varietal Cabernet Franc character, tension and explosive power. This tightly coiled wine demands further time in bottle, but is likely to be a real stunner when it emerges from its current state.

95 - Duemani 2016

The 2016 Duemani is a powerful and explosive wine. Dark red cherry, tobacco, cedar, plum, dried flowers, leather and licorice all race out of the glass as this rich, dense Cabernet Franc shows o" its personality. Aged 20 months in French oak, the 2016 is a wine of great power and density. I would prefer to drink it on the young side, to take advantage of the wine's superb depth and intensity. This is an outstanding vintage for the Duemani.

94 - Suisassi 2013

Duemani's 2013 Syrah Suisassi is impressive. The inclusion of a third of whole clusters adds considerable aromatic lift and nuance to the dark fruit flavors. Lavender, mint, sage, licorice and plum are all pushed forward. Beams of underlying acidity shape the expressive, saline finish.

96 - Suisassi 2016

The 2016 Suisassi brings together power and freshness to a degree that is quite rare on the coast. Inky dark purplish fruit, leather, licorice, plum, lavender and spice come together in a deep Syrah endowed with tremendous concentration as well as power. Time in the glass brings out the wine's explosive energy and tension. The 30% whole clusters are evident, but not overly so.

Elena Fucci

 93 - Titolo Aglianico del Vulture DOC 2014

Bright purple-ruby. Aromas and flavors of dark plum, black cherry and sweet spices are complemented by a strong balsamic note. Bright and juicy, with a lovely mineral tang and harmonious acidity lifting the steely red fruit flavors and extending them through a long floral finish. Outstanding wine. The 2014 vintage was a very rainy one throughout Italy, but it was not so wet on the Vulture, where late harvests mean that summer rains are less damaging than elsewhere in the country (the veraison doesn’t even start in the Vulture until September).

90 - Titolo Aglianico del Vulture DOC 2015

Medium red-ruby. A hint of stewed fruits along with balsamic oils complicate red cherry and superripe berry liqueur on the nose. Then more energetic in the mouth in spite of its superripe red fruit and spice flavors, with a serious tannic spine of tannins leaving an impression of mounting austerity behind on the long, tactile back end. There's plenty of fruit here but today the wine comes across as a bit youthfully aggressive, and I’m not sure those tannins will ever resolve fully. Aged 24 months in 50% new and 50% used French oak barriques. -- Ian D'Agata

93 - Titolo Aglianico del Vulture DOC 2017

Good dark red. Perfumed aromas of red berry liqueur and ripe red cherry are lifted by pungent medicinal herbs and complemented by sexy vanilla and spice tones. Full-bodied yet delicate, with a fine-grained personality and compelling sweetness on the suave finish. This is aged 12 months in 50% new and 50% used French oak barriques. -- Ian D'Agata

Fattoria La Rivolta

93 - Aglianico DOCG 2015

Very dark red with a pale rim. Ripe red cherry, orange peel and sweet herb aromas. Then rich, fresh and perfumed in the mouth, displaying
outstanding cut and clarity to the vibrant red berry and blue fruit flavors. Finishes with a dusting of minerals and botanical herbs. Still very young and will age well. Outstanding example of what the Aglianico variety can deliver in the right hands.

90 - Aglianico Rosato DOCG 2013

Bright medium red. Vibrant, inviting aromas of red berries, violet and minty minerals are complicated by hints of black cherry syrup. Enters dense and tangy, then turns leaner, with brisk acidity and a peppery element giving shape and grip to the refined flavors of black cherry, berries, and licorice. The polished tannins hit the palate late. My score is an average of the nose (92) and the body (88). -- Ian D'Agata

90 - Coda di Volpe DOC 2015

Bright gold. Hints of dill mix with tangy orange oil and tropical fruit marmalade on the nose. The rich, chewy palate shows penetrating orange jam and tangerine flavors and is slightly phenolic. Finishes with good acid grip and outstanding length. The warm year has produced yet another atypically rich and tactile Coda di Volpe Bianca wine. -- Ian D'Agata

93 - Coda di Volpe DOC 2016

Bright medium golden-tinged yellow. Yellow apple and pear plus hints of honey and herbs on the enticing nose. Then very juicy and fresh; laser-like acidity lifts the rich flavors of apple, pear and
peach on the long, vibrant finish. Knockout Coda di Volpe from one of the recognized masters of the grape variety.

93 - Coda di Volpe DOC 2017

Luminous pale golden-tinged yellow. Peach, apricot and minerals on the deep, complex nose. Then rich, dense and tactile, with flavors similar to the aromas on the long, ripe, stony finish. Another smashingly good Coda di Volpe wine by La Rivolta, an estate that has a real knack for this variety and a long history of making outstanding wines with it.

94 - Coda di Volpe DOC 2018

Bright golden-tinged yellow. Captivating aromas of peach, crystallized apricot and botanical herbs, plus a whisper of minerals on the complex, youthfully reticent nose. Enters rich and tactile, then turns more lean and fresh in the middle, offering repeating flavors similar to the aromas, lifted by a strong fresh ginger bite. There is sneaky concentration and complexity here. Finishes long with a hint of glyceral sweetness. The Coda di Volpe Bianca variety allows La Rivolta to make one of its best wines almost every year. Well done.

90 - Coda di Volpe DOP 2014

Bright yellow. Ripe peach, tropical fruits and white flowers on the decadent nose. Then suave and tactile in the mouth, offering a fleshy, pliant texture but also a firm spine of minerality to its ripe tropical fruit flavors. Concentrated and long on the finish. Although this wine is ready to drink, it has excellent potential for further aging even if it doesn't have quite the mineral lift of the best vintages. -- Ian D'Agata

90 - Falanghina DOC 2017

Bright straw-yellow. Fresh orchard and citrus fruit aromas are both ripe and fresh. Then similar flavors and plenty of early appeal on the juicy
finish. Archetypal Falanghina wine that is very uncomplicated, easygoing, fruity and soft.

92 - Fiano DOC 2016

Pale straw-green. Perfumed aromas of green apple and white peach complicated by lemon verbena, gin and jasmine on the captivating nose. Lovely freshness and a hint of powdered stones that complements ripe stone fruit and pomaceous fruit flavors. Knockout but very refined Fiano in a lighter mode compatible with the vintage. -- Ian D'Agata

92 - Fiano DOC 2018

Luminous straw-green. Deep, dense aromas and flavors of green apple, lemongrass, jasmine and minerals. Enters and finishes with gingery spiciness, but packs in plenty of mineral-laced ripe orchard fruit flavors. Another outstanding white wine from La Rivolta this year.

91- Greco DOC 2015

Golden-yellow. Flinty peach and ripe citrus on the captivating nose. Clean, fresh and very precise, with a tactile quality to the fresh flavors of ripe grapefruit and tangerine. Finishes long and mineral with building nuances of apple and pear. This has 14 percent alcohol but is so well balanced I would never have guessed it packed so many octanes. Outstanding Greco. -- Ian D'Agata

94 - Greco DOC 2017

Bright golden yellow. Chewy, rich and dense, featuring nicely focused apricot and peach flavors. Finishes long, ripe and tactile, with a polished mouthfeel and noteworthy complexity.
One of the three best Greco wines of the year.

91 - Terra di Rivolta DOC 2012

Very dark red with a pale rim. Ripe red cherry, orange peel and sweet herb aromas. Then rich, fresh and perfumed in the mouth, displaying outstanding cut and clarity to the vibrant red berry and blue fruit flavors. Finishes with a dusting of minerals and botanical herbs. Still very young and will age well. Outstanding example of what the Aglianico variety can deliver in the right hands .

Il Borro

 90 - Bolle di Borro Rose Metodo Classico 2011

Orange-pink. Pungent orange jam, tangerine peel and quinine on the nose. Then fresh, saline and juicy, with apple jelly, pear nectar and botanical herb flavors on the tactile, long finish. Boasts very good size and texture, and leaves an almost meaty, very savory impression. Ian D'Agata. Tasting date: April 2017

Meroi

93 - Merlot Vigna Dominin DOC 2013

Like the Refosco, the 2013 Merlot Vigna Dominin shows what appears to be a desire to maintain more freshness in the wines. Vibrant and medium in body, the 2013 is a model of understated finesse. Even so, there is not shortage of intensity, its just that the wine is better balanced than in the past, with more freshness and redder tonalities to the fruit, and less oak influence. I would wait to drink the 2013 for at least a few years in order to allow the wine to develop more aromatic complexity. This is a lovely showing.

91 - Nestri Bianco DOC 2016

Luminous straw color. Fresh aromas and flavors of honeyed apples, pear and a whiff of crisp mountain air. A strong note of minerals emerges in the mouth on the long tactile but juicy and very fresh, saline finish.

94 - Refosco del Peduncolo Rosso Vigna Dominin DOC 2013

The 2013 Refosco Vigna Dominin is a beautiful wine. Meroi has succeeded in taming most of the rusticity out of this notoriously rustic Friulian grape. In exchange, though, the wine is a bit less varietally expressive than it has been in the past. Still, taken on its own terms, the 2013 is a gorgeous Friulan red to drink over the next decade, give or take. Stylistically, the 2013 is a bit less pushed and concentrated than other recent editions. Sweet red cherry, French oak, spice and wild flowers are nicely pushed forward in this succulent, expressive red from Friuli's Colli Oriental district.

Ottella

 90 - Le Creete Lugana DOC 2018

Bright dark straw yellow. Exotic aromas of tropical fruits, spices and apple on the inviting nose. Then juicy and fresh, with lemony cut lifting the white flower and pomaceous orchard fruit flavors on the long finish. 100% Turbiana grown in the single vineyard Le Creete (written with two “e”s). The wine’s name derives from the vineyard, which has a high limestone-clay content. -- Ian D'Agata

89 - Lugana DOC 2018

Straw yellow. Crisp aromas of peony, yellow apple and minty herbs are complicated by quince jam. Juicy, fresh and forward, with moderate depth to the flavors that are very similar to the aromas. Finishes clean and medium-long. This will offer considerable early appeal. -- Ian D'Agata

Paolo Cali

90 - Mandragola Frappato Di Vittoria DOC 2016

Bright red-ruby. Fresh violet and nectarine on the nose and palate, with nuances of strawberry and Oriental spice adding depth. Broad and fleshy, with good heft to its red and pit fruit flavors, but not especially lively. Shows a touch of warmth on the finish, which stops abruptly and ripe. (13% alcohol)

93 - Jazz Frappato e Nero d'Avola IGT 2016

Vibrant red. Frappato’s uniquely pungent and highly recognizable floral note dominates the nose and pushes the red berry and herbal aromas into the background. Then suave and ripe, but also very fresh with refined flavors reminiscent of the aromas that last and last. The finish features hints of sweet spices and minerals that linger nicely. This is a really lovely wine that will match heavenly with chicken and veal dishes; well done.

93 - Manene Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG 2016

Bright red. Clean, flinty and musky nose comes across as lower-pitched than the 2016 Pruvenza. Then smooth and supple on the palate but not yet complex. This very youthful wine still shows a dominant flavor of medicinal raspberry and crushed rocks. Although very closed, it finishes with serious but polished tannins and excellent freshness and persistence.

91 - Osa! Frappato Rosato IGT 2016

Bright pink. Clean, fresh strawberry and peach plus a hint of grapefruit on the nose. Then rich tactile and sweet, with more pink grapefruit on the palate. Very bright and juicy on the saline finish.

92 - Violino Nero d'Avola Vittoria DOC 2016

Bright red. Perfumed and light on its feet with lovely floral and citrus lift to the aromas and flavors of red cherry, herbs and violet. Long and mineral on the lively finish.
From Sicily: Where Great Wines and Lava Flow (Aug 2019)

Paltrinieri

91 - Leclisse Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC 2016

Bright pink. Perfumed strawberry, red cherry and vanilla aromas and flavors. Clean fresh and long, with juicy creamy nuances that linger nicely on the fresh, precise back end. Lovely Lambrusco di Sorbara made from grapes grown in the Cristo vineyard, in my view the grand cru of Sorbara.

Podere Giodo

91 - Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2015

Good dark red. Herbs, tar and red fruit on the nose. Then similar flavors to the aromas, with a chewy texture and an almost spiky acid presence on the long, slightly angular finish. This needs to be cellared to let it smoothen out completely. -- Ian D'Agata

93- Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2015

The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino explodes from the glass with a dramatic display of sweet cherries, exotic spice and cedar shavings, evolving and gaining further depths as its fruit morphs more toward ripe strawberry, complicated by wild herbs and hints of undergrowth. On the palate, the 2015 is soft yet so tense and poised, showing incredible purity through the brilliant flavors of mineral-tinged red berries and savory spices. The finish is long, feminine and youthfully structured, still resonating on ripeness and giving pleasure today, yet balanced to evolve for a decade or more in the cellar. -- Eric Guido

90 - La Quinta Toscana Rosso IGT 2018

The 2018 Giodo La Quinta shows depths of dark red fruits on the nose, as black cherry evolves into raspberry and, finally, strawberry, offset by notes of dusty rose, leather and cedar shavings. On the palate, silky textures flood the senses with a sweet and savory expression, further accentuated by salty minerals and vibrant acids, as pretty inner florals amass toward the close. The finish is long and perfumed. The 2018 Giodo La Quinta shows depths of dark red fruits on the nose, as black cherry evolves into raspberry and, finally, strawberry, offset by notes of dusty rose, leather and cedar shavings. On the palate, silky textures flood the senses with a sweet and savory expression, further accentuated by salty minerals and vibrant acids, as pretty inner florals amass toward the close. The finish is long and perfumed. -- Eric Guido

Quintodecimo

 93 - Terra d'Eclano Aglianico Irpinia DOC 2017

The bouquet in the 2017 Aglianico Terra d’Eclano is dark and alluring, opening with a dusting of sweet violet candies, followed by ripe blueberry, blackberry, hints of licorice, and peppery floral tones that build in the glass. On the palate, silky, seductive textures are offset by cool-toned black fruits and exotic spice, as salty minerals saturate the senses and hints of fine tannin mount toward the finale. The finish is long but also remarkably fresh with an air of minty herbs and lingering florals, as residual acids sizzle, giving the 2017 Terra d’Eclano vibrancy up to the last moment. I can’t help but feel that this wine gets better with every passing vintage. -- Eric Guido

94- Vigna Grande Cerzito Taurasi DOCG Riserva 2015

The bouquet on the 2015 Taurasi Riserva Vigna Quintodecimo is restrained at first, requiring time in the glass to truly unfurl; yet once it does, an elegant and gorgeous display of pretty violets, ripe blackberry, blueberry skins, plum, and white smoke lifts from the glass. It washes across the senses like pure silk, ushering in mineral-infused black fruits and spice, with compelling acidity that adds tremendous energy from start to finish. Tannins arrive toward the finale, previously enveloped in the wine’s density of fruit, showing a structured display, yet still so easy to like, as an air of pretty florals and remnants of blackberry fade. It’s a wine of undeniable elegance, which will be hard to keep your hands off long enough to watch it reach full maturity. -- Eric Guido

 94 - Vigna Quintodecimo Taurasi DOCG Riserva 2015

The bouquet on the 2015 Taurasi Riserva Vigna Quintodecimo is restrained at first, requiring time in the glass to truly unfurl; yet once it does, an elegant and gorgeous display of pretty violets, ripe blackberry, blueberry skins, plum, and white smoke lifts from the glass. It washes across the senses like pure silk, ushering in mineral-infused black fruits and spice, with compelling acidity that adds tremendous energy from start to finish. Tannins arrive toward the finale, previously enveloped in the wine’s density of fruit, showing a structured display, yet still so easy to like, as an air of pretty florals and remnants of blackberry fade. It’s a wine of undeniable elegance, which will be hard to keep your hands off long enough to watch it reach full maturity.

-- Eric Guido

Ronchi di Cialla

93 - Picolit 2013

Deep bright yellow. Subtle aromas of lime, peach Melba, and balsamic oils, with complicating notes of vanilla and honeyed tropical fruit. Then dense, rich with a glyceral texture to its peach, mango and floral flavors. Mouthfilling and horizontal, but with harmonious acidity lifting and extending the aftertaste on the suave back end. -- Ian D'Agata

91 - Refosco 2015

Good full red-ruby. Dark plum, mocha, and graphite on the nose, all lifted by a floral element. Fresh and deep, with flinty and herbal nuances contributing complexity to the bright flavors of dark berries and plum on the smooth palate. Spreads out impressively on the back end, finishing with sweet, fine-grained tannins and outstanding length. -- Ian D'Agata

92 - Ribolla Gialla 2016

Luminous pale golden-tinged straw yellow. Pure, vibrant aromas of lemon drop, lime zest, fresh apricot, minerals and herbs. Fresh and pristine, showing delightful vibrancy and noteworthy inner-mouth perfume to the very juicy peach, citrus and herb flavors. Finishes dry and mineral, with lively citrus nuances that last and last. None other than Enzo Pontoni of Miani, perhaps Italy’s best white winemaker, told me he liked the Ronchi di Cialla’s Ribolla Giallas he had tried and so that tells you just how good this wine often is. -- Ian D'Agata

90 - Ribolla Gialla DOC 2018

Bright pale yellow. Mineral and floral nuances complement aromas and flavors of nectarine, green apple, white peach, lemon drop and jasmine. Fresh and juicy, closes long and bright. - Ian D'Agata

91 - Schioppettino 1983

Deep red-ruby with an amber rim. Very deep aromas of dark plums, blueberry nectar, camphor, and minerals. Ripe and round on entry, then slightly austere with leafy and saline nuances to the dark berry flavors. Finishes long with a strong mineral undertone and a whiplash of lemony acidity really extending the violet and red berry flavors, but the tannins aren’t quite as smooth as those of other wines in this lineup. Still, this is an extremely impressive wine, as the Schioppettino vines were only ten years old at the time. -- Ian D'Agata

92 - Schioppettino 1992

Bright red-ruby. Captivating aromas of blue and red fruits, minerals, spicy underbrush and violet. Juicy and fresh on entry, then fuller and richer in the middle with a firm tannic spine neatly framing the very precise red and blue fruit flavors. Finishes long and pure, featuring noteworthy inner-mouth perfume. This is quite a success given the vintage. In fact, the 1992 vintage was a difficult one in Friuli and in other parts of Italy, as it was extremely rainy and cool (come fall, it rains a lot in Friuli and even more so in Cialla, but the cool microclimate is a big advantage in summers that are superhot everywhere else).-- Ian D'Agata

93- Schioppettino 1996

Bright red; looks very young for a twenty-plus year old wine. Perfumed aromas and flavors of strawberry, raspberry and blueberry, complicated by minty herbs and violet. Bright and juicy, with vibrant but harmonious acidity neatly extending the very precise dark and red berry flavors on the long, slightly herbal finish; a strong note of eucalyptus emerges with aeration. A wine of impeccable acid-tannin balance, it offers sneaky concentration and length. A lovely Schioppettino in which the eucalyptus note speaks of a slightly warmer year that makes a balsamic note present in the wine stand out. The 1996 vintage was another good one in the Cialla area, perhaps slightly warmer and drier (especially drier) than usual. -- Ian D'Agata

91- Schioppettino 2007

Good full ruby-red. Highly expressive nose offers blackcurrant, black plum, minerals and fresh herbs, plus a hint of green peppercorn. Lush, smooth and concentrated, with ripe black fruit and mineral flavors lifted by a floral high note and nicely framed by suave, lively acids and tannins. Thanks to its fine-grained texture, this wine maintains an elegance and a light touch typical of the best examples of schioppettino. Should give early pleasure but this is also balanced to age. -- Ian D'Agata

95- Schioppettino 2009

Bright ruby-red. Complex, very refined aromas of blueberry, raspberry, violet, fruity peppercorn, licorice, and orange zest. Pure silk in the mouth, with enticing soil-driven salinity and harmonious acidity lifting the red and blueberry flavors. The long, pure, suave finish goes on for minutes and offers lingering spicy, herbal and floral elements. A knockout wine that is all about finesse and thrust, not just power and flesh. -- Ian D'Agata

93- Schioppettino 2015

Bright, deep ruby-red. Captivating aromas of boysenberry, blueberry and balsamic reduction. Dense, sweet and savory, with exotic flavors of candied blackberry, wet stones and sandalwood. Sneakily concentrated, complex and enlivened by perfectly integrated acidity, this lovely example of Schioppettino finishes long with a refined mouthfeel but also palate-staining depth. -- Ian D'Agata

90 - Schioppettino DOC 2010

Bright red. Leafy blueberry, green peppercorn and a bright violet top-note greet the nose. Fresh, juicy and vibrant, with crisp red and dark berry and underbrush flavors. The finish is long and vibrant. Much better after it sat in the glass for an hour or so, picking up in fleshy mouth-feel and sweetness of fruit. This is a very typical Cialla Schioppettino from a cool year, but it could use a little more generosity of fruit. -- Ian D'Agata

92 - Verduzzo di Cialla 2013

Bright straw-yellow. Sweet spices, honey, and vanilla combine with baked apple pie and cinnamon on the nose and in the mouth. Juicy, sweet and firmly built, with polished tannins and a long creamy finish. A knockout Verduzzo. -- Ian D'Agata

San Filippo

94 - Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucere 2013

Bright red. Perfumed aromas and flavors of pink flowers, sour red cherry and strawberry. Fresh and juicy but also dense and deep, this boasts captivating sugar-acid-tannin balance. Finishes long and perfumed; despite its sneaky concentration and size, it also has a light-on-its-feet quality that is very typical of this wine.

92 - Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucere 2015

Moderately saturated red. Stony aromas and flavors of candied violet, red plum, ripe red cherry jam and herbs on the inviting nose. Youthfully chewy and saline on the ripe but long finish that features good acid lift and polished tannins. This ought to develop very nicely.

92 - Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucere Riserva 2012

Deep ruby-red; I’m not sure Brunello needs to be this deep in color. Rich, ripe aromas and flavors of fresh blackberry, red cherry pie and blueberry nectar are complemented by a strong dollop of vanilla. The finish is long, creamy and suave but will leave the hairs in your nostrils singed by considerable alcohol-derived heat (the label reports 15.5% alcohol, and you won’t have any trouble believing it). Despite its excesses, this is an outstanding wine. Personally, I much prefer the non-riserva Brunello Le Lucére, but I can see how some people might prefer this bigger, darker wine.

93 - Brunello di Montalcino 2013

Bright red with a pale rim. Pungently floral and spicy notes of cardamom and rose complicate red cherry aromas and flavors. Boasts a steely backbone and a very fresh, piercing personality. The long, very flinty finish showcases an enticing rising quality with aeration.

92 - Brunello di Montalcino 2014

Bright red. The pristine nose offers hints of violet, pomegranate, red cherry and minerals. Then juicy fresh and dense, with lovely clarity and cut to the taut, bright perfumed flavors similar to the aromas. Finishes long with noteworthy mineral presence.

89 - Brunello di Montalcino 2015

Very deep red. Ripe aromas and Flavors of red cherry, coffee, herbs and tar. Starts smooth and fleshy, then turns increasingly spicy and chewy, with noteworthy alcohol-derived octanes on the long close. I like this big ripe wine’s start better than how it finishes.

Vodopivec

94 - Origine Vitovska IGT 2009

Sgonico, Friuli Venezia Giulia - White wine from Italy
Drinking window: 2013 - 2019

The 2009 Vitovska Origine is a bomb. Rich, powerful and structured, it captures the essence of what makes Vitovksa in the Carso district so incredibly appealing. Dried pears, flowers, spices and mint all flesh out as this deep, resonant white shows off its irrepressible personality. The finish is long, rich and resonant. A broad, expansive white, the Origine should drink well early, but it also has enough depth to age nicely for at least a handful of years. Overall, the style is a bit exuberant next to the more subtle Solo MM9. Both wines are striking, each in their own way. The Origine was fermented and aged in large Slavonian oak casks.

89 - Vitovska IGT 2010

Vodopivec 2010 Vitovska Sgonico, Friuli Venezia Giulia White wine from Italy
Drinking window: 2015 - 2020

The 2010 Vitovska opens with exotic, Riesling-inflected hints of petrol, smoke, apricot pit and savory herbs. Big, rich and textured in the glass, the 2010 is a white wine only in color. The depth of fruit and tannic structure are decidedly those of a red wine. White flowers and a hint of spices linger on the finish. As good as the 2010 is, it could also use a bit more focus, especially in the aromatics.